Parmigiano Reggiano is one of the most scrutinised cheeses on the planet. Every single wheel must meet a strict set of criteria before it earns the right to carry that name. Produced only within a tightly defined region of northern Italy — covering the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, and parts of Mantua and Bologna — this cheese has been made following essentially the same method for over nine centuries. Understanding how it is produced helps explain why it tastes the way it does and why no imitation comes remotely close.

The Milk That Makes the Difference

Everything begins with milk — and not just any milk. Parmigiano Reggiano can only be produced using raw, partially skimmed cow’s milk from cows raised within the designated production zone. These animals are fed locally grown forage, and their diet directly influences the flavour of the finished cheese. No additives, preservatives, or food colouring are permitted at any stage. The evening milk is left to rest overnight so that some cream rises naturally to the surface. The following morning, this partially skimmed milk is blended with fresh whole morning milk and poured into large copper cauldrons for heating.

Curdling and Cooking the Curd

Once the milk reaches the correct temperature, natural whey starter — a living culture made from the previous day’s production — is added along with calf rennet. This causes the milk to coagulate within about ten minutes. The resulting curd is broken down into tiny granules using a traditional wire tool called a spino. The curd is then cooked at around 55°C, causing the granules to firm up and sink to the bottom of the cauldron. The cheesemaker lifts the entire mass of curd from the cauldron using a hemp cloth and divides it into two portions, each destined to become a single 40-kilogram wheel.

Moulding and Brining

Each portion of curd is placed into a round mould lined with a casein plaque that will eventually bear the wheel’s identification number, producer code, and month and year of production. Over the following days, the wheel is pressed and turned repeatedly to help it hold its shape. After several days in the mould, each wheel is submerged in a saturated brine solution for approximately 20 days. The cheese absorbs salt through osmosis during this period, which acts as a natural preservative and contributes substantially to the final flavour profile.

The Long Maturation

Once brining is complete, the wheels are transferred to wooden shelves in the ageing warehouse, known locally as a stagionatura. Here they rest for a minimum of 12 months, though most commercially sold wheels are matured for 24 or even 36 months. During this time, they are turned and cleaned at regular intervals, either by hand or with specially designed machines. As moisture gradually evaporates, the flavour intensifies and the texture becomes increasingly granular and crystalline. The characteristic white crystals that form inside an aged wheel are amino acid deposits — a marker of genuine, extended maturation.

The Consortium Inspection

At the 12-month mark, every single wheel is inspected by expert graders appointed by the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano. They tap each wheel with a small hammer and listen carefully to the sound it produces. A clear, consistent ring indicates a perfectly formed interior with no voids or cracks. Wheels that pass the inspection are fire-branded with the oval Parmigiano Reggiano mark. Those that fail are stripped of their rind markings and sold under a different designation. This quality check ensures that every wheel carrying the name is genuinely worthy of it.

Key Facts About the Production Process

• It takes approximately 550 litres of milk to produce a single wheel weighing around 40 kg.
• No additives, artificial ingredients, or GMO feed are permitted under PDO regulations.
• Minimum ageing is 12 months; wheels classified as Stravecchio are aged 36 months or more.
• Each wheel is assigned a unique number traceable to the specific dairy and production batch.
• Over 3.5 million wheels are produced each year across the designated production zone.
• Production takes place seven days a week, year-round, with most activity occurring before noon.

Why Witnessing the Process in Person Is Worth It

Watching this process unfold inside a working dairy is a completely different experience from reading about it. Production begins at dawn, and most of the key stages — from curdling and cooking the curd to lifting the mass from the cauldron — happen within the first two or three hours of the morning. Visiting a real Parmigiano Reggiano dairy gives you direct access to cheesemakers who have inherited this craft across generations. You will stand beside the copper cauldrons, handle the hemp cloth, walk through the ageing room stacked floor to ceiling with maturing wheels, and taste cheese at different points in its maturation. If you want to book your Parmesan tour and experience this firsthand, the best dairies near Bologna welcome small groups with expert English-speaking guides who can translate both the language and the craft.

For practical details on what to expect when you arrive at the dairy, including transport options and what the morning schedule looks like, read our full guide to visiting a Parmigiano Reggiano dairy near Bologna.

Book Your Experience

Join a small-group guided tour from Bologna and watch Parmigiano Reggiano being made from scratch. Taste wheels aged at 12, 24, and 36 months, put your questions directly to the producers, and leave with a far deeper appreciation for one of Italy’s greatest food traditions. Spaces are limited — check the calendar before your trip.